The Lodge 3.2-Quart Forged-Iron Combo Cooker Is the Greatest Baking Instrument

Scoring a tour of the Modernist Delicacies kitchens close to Seattle is catnip for meals writers like me. Not solely have they got all of the toys, they’ve industrial variations of all of the toys: rotovap machines, blast freezers, steam ovens, you title it. However the factor I keep in mind most about my tour a number of years again was a plain-Jane Samsung house oven in the course of all of it. Modernist’s head chef, Francisco Migoya, opened its door and pointed at a cast-iron pot in the course of it that was so darkish, it appeared to not mirror any gentle.

Amid this nerd gadget treasure trove, he stated one thing like: That forty-dollar pot? That is one of the best instrument you should purchase to make good bread at house.

Because of that pot and a near-perfect recipe, I now make loaves of improbable bread a pair instances every week. This isn’t a brag. The bread I make takes nearly no ability on my half. I simply lucked into what turned out to be the apex of what you will get by combining culinary sloth and the fitting instrument for the job. Whereas the web is stuffed with of us who’re obsessive about the sourdough loaves they slaved over (it is a complete course of), you may make an impressive loaf with a little bit of time and nearly zero effort.

{Photograph}: Katrin Ray Shumakov/Getty Photographs

The Lodge 3.2-Quart Forged Iron Combo Cooker (aka “the LCC3”) is the place the magic occurs. It’s a curious animal. Taken aside, the “lid” can also be a skillet, and the underside is a giant sauce pot. Put the previous on high of the latter and you have got a Dutch oven that, with its two handles, seems a bit like a child with a ball cap on sideways. Flip it so the skillet is beneath and you’ve got a perfect vessel for baking bread. The loaves I make have a beautiful darkish crust and a ravishing, springy inside, which is named the crumb. If I purchased what I made at a flowery bakery, I might be 100% happy, each time. Priced at $50 (solely $40 on Amazon) and weighing 13 kilos, the Combo Cooker is so low-cost that I sometimes give it as a present, so long as the delivery is free.

An enormous a part of why I prefer it a lot is the recipe that makes it shine: Jim Lahey’s no-knead bread, one thing that obtained an enormous enhance from a pair of Mark Bittman tales in The New York Occasions, then was without end enshrined in his personal e-book and Modernist Bread. As an alternative of requiring numerous kneading or mixing, time does the grunt work. Mix flour, yeast, and salt, then add water and blend till it holds itself collectively in what’s often called a “shaggy mass.” After that, stick it on the counter in a single day. Form it right into a ball within the morning, let it rise once more for a bit, then put it into the preheated Lodge and bake it. Once I’m on my sport, the guide labor takes all of about 10 minutes. By ready it out with that in a single day rise, you permit the gluten within the dough to strengthen and the flavors from the fermenting yeast to develop, a way identified each as autolyse and sleeping.

There are nonetheless loads of magic methods left once you change over to the pot. One in every of my favorites is how, with dough in it, it turns into a steam oven, a fetish merchandise amongst bakers and cooks. With the pot’s comparatively tight seal, the steam launched from the dough is trapped inside, serving to make warmth switch to the dough notably environment friendly. It is successfully a really secure little oven within your bigger one, and preserving the steam inside permits the floor of the loaf to stretch throughout baking so the inside can rise because it cooks.

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